Normal Standard Route Technical Climbing Mount Kenya
8 days Normal Standard Route Technical Climbing Mount Kenya
Leave Nairobi at 8.00 am to Nanyuki, which normally takes 4hrs drive, arriving at 12.00, then proceed to Mt Kenya National Park Sirimon gate, picnic lunch will be provided. After lunch, follow the track uphill for 10 kms, forking left at the junction to reach Old Moses camp which is situated at 3,300m. The ascent from Sirimon gate to Old Moses is 690m. Dinner/overnight.
After breakfast, leave at 8.00 am, follow the directions for the direct route, until you reach the fork after one hour. The track becomes a path, and swings right and south round the head of a large valley, crossing several small streams to reach the crest of the ridge between the Otulili and Liki North Valleys. A walk of 3 to 4 hours to Liki North hut at 3,993m. Dinner/overnight.
After breakfast, ascend the west side of the Valley, over a ridge, then down into the Mackinder's Valley to meet the direct route, taking one to two hours. From here, follow the Mackinder's Valley to reach Shipton's camp, a total of 4 hours from Liki to Shipton's camp at 4,250m. Dinner/overnight.
Wake up at 2.00 a.m., have tea and biscuits, then leave at 3.00 a.m. for the Lenana summit. This section is a long, hard slog, and the path is indistinct in places. Continue walking across a tough scree, until you come across Harris Tarn. From Harris Tarn, continue up the north face of Point Lenana reaching the summit after approx., 45 minutes at 4,985m, for the sunrise at 6.30 a.m.
After enjoying the views and taking your pictures, descend down to Austrian hut 4700 m (This will be your base camp before climbing Nelion) Dinner and overnight.
NB: If you are a quick climber, you can do it with only one day without spending a night.
Wake up 3.30 am and have tea and biscuits. Leave at 4.00 am, cross the Lewis glacier and up to the base of Nelion, which normally takes 2 hours. Start your climb at 7.00 am until you get to the top at 1.00 O'clock. Traverse the gate of mist to Batian and then return to Nelion. Dinner and overnight at Ian Howell hut at 5100m.
Abseil down to the bottom about 9 ropes, 50 meters, and then walk to Austrian Hut for breakfast. After morning breakfast, continue walking down to Mintos hut at 4200m for dinner and overnight.
After breakfast, descend down to Meru Mount Kenya Bandas above Chogoria, following the Gorges Valley. It will take 5 hours to reach the Bandas. Dinner/ overnight.
After morning breakfast, continue walking down through the bamboo and indigenous forest to reach Bairunyi to meet up with your transport back to Nairobi.
Includes:
Transport from and back to Nairobi/park & camp fees/porters/guide-cook/full board ,sharing accommodation in two-person tents.
Excludes:
Climbing Equipment. Rucksack (must be provided for the porters by the clients, duffel bags are unacceptable)/mountain clothes/walkingboots/tips/extras of personal nature/drinks/sleeping bags (for hire)/medical and evacuation insurance.
For the climbing equipment, you Need to bring your own harness, climbing boot, crampons, ice axe, warm sleeping bag, bivy bag and light tent. The other climbing equipment like friends, figure of eight, stopper, ropes will be provided.
Mount Kenya North face standard route
Below are the details of the North face Route
The North face standard route starts from Shipton’s Camp or from Kami Hut at 0330 hrs. 2 hrs hike to the base of climbing. The start is Grade IV+. The first two pitches are easy for scrambling, Another Grade III then Grade 11 and a Grade IV to get to the amphitheater. From there an easy donkey walk to the base of Firmin Tower. Two routes emerge here. One up the Tower quite tricky about Grade V in a small gully not enough to fit in. The other is around the tower, easier but longer. After that you come to the knife edge you do a Grade IV+ pitch and another Grade IV pitch before you come to a traverse that leads you to the Shipton’s notch. At the Shipton’s notch rocks are quite lose and need to be handled with care. After finishing Shipton’s notch, then reach Batian 5,199m. After reaching carefully the top, then abseil down; you do a lot of down climbing. This is the longest climb. It’s 23 pitches.
Best done from June to early October.
You don’t need climbing experience, but you should know how to belay and to tie knots. If you don’t have enough experience, a technical Guide will always assist you.
All the routes are Graded IV and V, most of the pitches.
For the climbing equipment, you have to bring your own harness, climbing boot, crampons, ice axe, warm sleeping bag, bivy bag and light tent. The other climbing equipment like friends, figure of eight, stopper, ropes will be provided.
Our Mountain guides are well experienced on technical knowledge, having being trained by N.O.L.S (The American National Outdoor Leadership School) and working with Kenya Wildlife Service (K.W.S) helping them with the mountain rescues in Mount Kenya National Park.
8 Days North face standard route ,Technical Climbing Mount Kenya
Leave Nairobi at 8.00 am to Nanyuki, which normally takes 4hrs drive, arriving at 12.00, then proceed to Mt Kenya National Park Sirimon gate, picnic lunch will be provided. After lunch, follow the track uphill for 10 kms, forking left at the junction to reach Old Moses camp which is situated at 3,300m. The ascent from Sirimon gate to Old Moses is 690m.Dinner/overnight.
After breakfast, leave at 8.00 am, follow the directions for the direct route, until you reach the fork after one hour. The track becomes a path, and swings right and south round the head of a large valley, crossing several small streams to reach the crest of the ridge between the Otulili and Liki North Valleys. A walk of 3 to 4 hours to Liki North hut at 3,993m. Dinner/overnight
After breakfast, ascend the west side of the Valley, over a ridge, then down into the Mackinder's Valley to meet the direct route, taking one to two hours. From here, follow the Mackinder's Valley to reach Shipton camp, a total of 4 hours from Likki to Shipton's camp at 4,250m. Dinner/overnight.
After breakfast at 9.00 a.m. ascend to Kami hut 4,600m which normally takes 2hrs. Dinner/overnight. [Kami hut is the base camp for climbers who are doing North Face
Wake up at 5.00 a.m., have tea and biscuits, then leave at 5.30 to the base of North Face, which normally takes 45 mins to 1 hour, this section is rocky and frozen scree. Continue walking until you reach the starting point of rock climbing, then start climbing at 7.00 a.m., spending a night at Firmin Tower, (10 ropes of 50m). Dinner/overnight.
From Firmin Tower continue rock climbing until you reach Batian at 5,199m, 12.00 midday, then abseil down to the bottom and walk to Shiptons camp, dinner/overnight.
After breakfast, ascend Simba col then down to Meru Mount Kenya Bandas above Chogoria, following the Gorges Valley. It will take 7 hours to reach the Bandas. Dinner/ overnight.
After morning breakfast, continue walking down through the bamboo and indigenous forest to reach Bairunyi to meet up with your transport back to Nairobi.
Price Includes:
– Transport from and back to Nairobi.
– All the park fees.
– Camping fees.
– Guides and poters.
– Food in full-board .
– Technical guide if needed
Excludes:
Climbing Equipment. Rucksack (must be provided for the porters by the clients, duffel bags are unacceptable)/mountain clothes/walking boots/tips/extras of personal nature/drinks/sleeping bags (for hire)/medical and evacuation insurance.
For the climbing equipment, you have to bring your own harness, climbing boot, crampons, ice axe, warm sleeping bag, bivy bag and light tent. The other climbing equipment like friends, figure of eight, stopper, ropes will be provided.
Clothing requirements:
Layered clothing is strongly recommended.
Clothing should be wool or silk, cotton fiber absorbs moister which can cause chills.
Upper body layers – sweaters, wool jackets, rain parka.
Outer Layers – rain coat, wind shirt, rain pants, wind pants.
Other needs-Mountain boots, 3 pairs of wool socks, gaiters, wool hats, woolen mittens, sunglasses.